Il Nuovo Postiglione - UK king opens London fashion week despite brother's arrest

The king surprised crowds when his car pulled up outside the opening show -- on a day when headlines were dominated by the former prince Andrew's arrest on suspicion of misconduct in public office for his dealings with late US sex offender Jeffrey Epstein.

After shaking hands and greeting industry leaders and designers, the king took a front-row seat between British Fashion Council chief executive officer Laura Weir and top UK designer Stella McCartney.

It was one of several public duties the king carried out on Thursday, apparently seeking to project an air of business-as-usual.

"How are you feeling after your brother's arrest?" a reporter shouted at least twice as the king arrived.

It was unclear if Charles heard the question. He did not respond.

Charles has been a key supporter of one of the designers showing in London, 27-year-old Joshua Ewusie, a breakout British creator born to Ghanaian parents who is due to put on his second fashion week show with his brand "E.W.Usie".

The young designer was supported by the King's Foundation, a charity founded by Charles, in partnership with Chanel, which gave him a studio space shortly after he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins school.

- Royal flavour -

London Fashion Week (LFW) is better known for nurturing new talent than big-name shows, and Ewusie epitomises the event's ability to give a platform to rising stars.

His hometown London, which boasts several fashion schools, provides "great support for young designers," Ewusie told AFP ahead of his LFW presentation on Sunday.

"There are so many opportunities, I think, that London gives to help young brands start," he added.

The show the king attended was by Tolu Coker, a British-Nigerian designer who launched her brand in 2018.

Her show, which featured elegant, mainly-unisex designs inspired by diverse identities, highlighted "craftsmanship, sustainability and the creative industries", fashion week organisers said in a statement.

The king's presence, they added, reinforced "British fashion's place on the world stage".

Not far away, at the Waldorf Hotel a tribute was held to one of Fashion Week's stalwarts, Paul Costelloe, who died in November aged 80.

The Irish-American's romantic, sartorial catwalks were a regular fixture on the opening day of the London fashion week since the inception of the show in 1984.

His son William Costelloe is now the creative director of the brand, which wrote on social media ahead of its LFW Autumn/Winter 2026 opening show: "A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward."

Other notable names including Harris Reed and Richard Quinn are returning to the catwalk in London, with Burberry closing the week in its usual fashion on Monday evening.

Other labels will bring a royal flavour to the runway, with brands worn by Princess Catherine including Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem putting on shows.

- Fashion incubator -

However, there will be no show from the breakout Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who was one of the most eagerly awaited at London Fashion Week in recent seasons.

The 41-year-old took over at Dior last June, leaving little time for his own brand, JW Anderson, which he founded in 2008.

For several years, London has been losing ground to rivals in Paris and Milan, but it has clung onto its role as a breeding ground for young talent.

The British Fashion Council's NewGen initiative provides funding for emerging talent, with several up-and-coming designers finding their stride at LFW through the incubator.

Designers such as Simone Rocha, Coker and Roksanda have become fashion week mainstays after making their debut on the NewGen catwalk.

A.Mariconda--INP