Il Nuovo Postiglione - Fashion world in flux for men's week in Paris

"This season feels a bit different from usual due to the shuffle of artistic directors in recent months," Adrien Communier, fashion editor at GQ France, told AFP.

Lanvin is set to return after a two-year hiatus, presenting Peter Copping’s debut collection as the artistic director of France’s oldest couture house.

After completing his first show in September, Valentino’s new artistic director, Alessandro Michele, will return for haute couture week, which follows immediately after the men’s January 21-26 Fashion Week.

One of the most anticipated shows will be on Sunday by in-vogue French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose Jacquemus brand is making its return to the official calendar after a five-year absence.

Notably absences include Givenchy, whose new chief designer Sarah Burton has reserved her first collection for the women’s Fashion Week in March, as well as Loewe, whose artistic director Jonathan Anderson is rumoured to be on the way out.

Hedi Slimane left his role as artistic director at Celine in October, John Galliano quit Maison Margiela in December, and Chanel unveiled their new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, only a month ago.

The schedule this week is set to be slightly lighter than last year, with 37 runway shows and 30 presentations showcasing the autumn-winter 2025-2026 collections.

"Even with a few no-shows, Paris remains by far the most abundant and creative of the Fashion Weeks," said Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at luxury Paris emporium Galeries Lafayette.

Insiders also point to Willy Chavarria's Friday event as one to watch.

The California-based designer, who helms his eponymous brand in addition to serving as vice president of design at Calvin Klein, is known for his oversized streetwear inspired by basketball and baseball.

- 'Workwear' -

Louis Vuitton will kick off the event Tuesday evening with the presentation of Pharrell Williams’ fourth collection, with the front rows of celebrities set to scrutinised as much as the clothes, as usual.

Like all major fashion brands, Louis Vuitton is looking to trade through tricky conditions, with demand from the crucial Chinese market weakening due to a housing market downturn and low economic growth in the Asian powerhouse.

Other top luxury labels that are highly dependent on Asian spending like Dior Homme and Hermes will feature in the Paris lineup, alongside Japanese brands Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, and Mihara Yasuhiro.

As in previous seasons, Saint Laurent is not part of the official lineup, though the Anthony Vaccarello-led brand is expected to hold a show in Paris shortly after men’s Fashion Week.

In terms of men's looks, experts say the aesthetic dominance of streetwear is fading, with designers increasingly focused on a "casual tailoring" aesthetic, emphasising suits and structured pieces with a relaxed twist.

A major trend from the spring-summer 2025 collections was dubbed "workwear."

Trench coats, Barbour-style jackets, duffle coats, leather jackets and loafers are all set to be prominent on the runways.

"There’s a classic, slightly dandy but chic, elegant, and casual silhouette emerging," said Feillard from Galeries Lafayette.

"There’s a need for comfort and elegance," added Communier from GQ.

Outdoor-inspired styles, featuring technical fabrics and trekking gear, are also set to continue.

When it comes to colours, brown has dominated for two seasons, and Communier expects it to remain a key shade this year.

A.Rastelli--INP