Il Nuovo Postiglione - Russian fashion designer 'Slava' Zaitsev dead at 85

Confirming Russian media reports, a spokeswoman added that when Zaitsev had celebrated his birthday in March with friends, "we could already see he was very, very, weak".

"The couturier Viacheslav Zaitsev has died," Russian state channel Perviy Kanal reported, paying tribute to a man who "dictated Soviet and Russian fashion for decades, an innovator who wasn't afraid of bold experiments".

Russia's most famous fashion designer, Zaitsev achieved global success with bright dresses adorned with the flower patterns found on traditional Russian shawls.

From a modest childhood in Ivanovo, a town of 400,000 people to the northeast of the capital, his career took him to the catwalks of Paris, New York and Tokyo.

The French press in the 1960s dubbed him the "Soviet Christian Dior".

Watched closely by the KGB because of his contacts with Western designers and his flamboyant character, Zaitsev was initially refused permission to leave the Soviet Union and his first collections were shown abroad without him.

In 1962, Zaitsev's first collection of clothes -- a uniform for female workers that featured skirts with the flower patterns of traditional Russian shawls and multicoloured boots -- was rejected by Soviet authorities.

"The colours were too bright and contrasted with the greyness of Soviet everyday life, where an individual should not differ from the rest of society," Zaitsev said in an interview with AFP in 2018.

F.Criscuolo--INP